Day 1-5
Agra- Jaipur- Mandawa- Bikaner, Rajasthan India
So I thought I would be able to have an updated day to day blog of this 10 day journey we have around Rajasthan, but this place is so majestic that you cannot help but immerse yourself fully in the experience thus you forget about everything you’ve left behind in the city, the smog, internet and blogs, and instead bask in the splendor that is Rajasthan, the ancient land of the kings with its bright colorful saris, enormous monuments, numerous veggie meals, hot chai, wonderful havelis… the list goes on and on. The region is so vast it has terrain that spans from the mountain ranges down to the arid desert, It can easily be compared to the whole island of Luzon.
Day 1
Our first stop was Agra, we set out from Delhi early morning meeting up with Gopal, our cab driver/tour guide hired by our tour coordinator to take us around Rajasthan in his cab, he knows where all the hotels we’re booked on are and where all the monuments, restaurants and even pit stops that serve hot chai would be, it’s a convenient and affordable way of seeing India. We’d be driving through the region most of the time during the day, drive times ranging from three hours up to almost nine hours at a time, So it’s best to get comfy on the backseat.
The first monument we went to was the Agra fort. It was HUGE! ( and Hugeness apparently is a common adjective among Indian fortresses) The fort is about a stone throw away from The Taj Mahal, This Fort I believe was founded by Mogul king Aakbar. Right now in India there’s this big movie ‘Joddha Aakbar’ starring Aishwarya Rai Bachan and Rheetik Roshan, it’s about this same king and his first wife, a Hindi named Joddha, Apparently this king had three wives, A hindi, a muslim, and a Judeo Christian. These were all relevant since parts of the Agra fort have architecture and designs created to mainly please all three wives, not to mention the 5,000 concubines he kept in his harem. The palace have parts made out of red stone, white luminous marble, limestone, even mirrors. You can just imagine how a day in the court life must have been. I bet everything that embellished the rooms had dizzying mogul designs typical of Rajasthan, carpets, curtains… everything! The grandson of Aakbar is the same king who made the Taj Mahal, he fell madly in love with his third wife, a Persian, who bore him 14 children within the 18 years they were married ( she died of childbirth on the 14th child… figures!) The king wished to fulfill his queen’s three wishes which includes the creation of her great mausoleum which we all know now as the Taj Mahal, second one was that he never marry again and third was to make their first son as the next king… the third one got him in trouble, there was an upheaval in the palace and another son killed everyone else and locked this king up in a room inside the fort where he spent the rest of his life staring out towards the Taj Mahal, which was just beyond a river from the fort.
The highlight of this stop was when we got to coerce a caretaker, with the help of our hired local guide of course, to let us in one of the better preserved rooms which belonged to a queen. It’s a closed off section that only VIPs are allowed to see, it’s cordoned off from the regular palace tour route. Inside the room had thousands of small mirrors on the walls and ceiling. First it was totally dark, there were only four of us in the room, me, Varoon, the caretaker and the guide. Then the caretaker lights up two candles and holds it up to the ceiling, it seems as if stars burst into sight. The candle light is reflected onto the of pieces of mirrors. It’s like we were sucked back in time as we watched amazed by the play of lights. Imagine how it would have been like at those times, while everyone had to tolerate darkness, this queen had her very own planetarium in her room.
The next stop was the Taj Mahal, it was just sheer beauty. It’s made of luminous marble, you can tell by probably holding your cellphone near the wall and for sure you’ll see the light pass through it. It’s huge considering that it’s simply a mausoleum, but it could easily be someone’s palace. On both sides of it are temples made of red stone. I don’t believe there would be any shortage of people wanting to see this monument, the only thing is that I as a foreigner had to pay more than 500 rupees where as an Indian national you only have to pay 20 rupees, like any other monument around here which has separate fees, and if ever you’d come to this place make sure to visit the Taj first before the Agra fort cause you get a discount if you do it that way, not the other way around like how we did. Video cameras are not allowed inside the premises of the Taj, you can only take it up to the front platform facing the monument, then before you can approach you have to leave your videocam in their lockers. But this is definitely worth it, I ended up buying a miniature Taj myself made out of white marble. That’s how amazed I was, or maybe I’m just that gullible.
Day 2
Next stop was Jaipur, but before that we went to ‘Fahtipur Sikrhi’, which was still in Agra, Another one of Aakbar’s creations. We hired a young local boy to be our guide. This place is again HUGE! Basically made out of Red stone. But this one is made basically for the Baba, a wiseman, who prophesied the coming of Aakbar’s first son. it’s mostly in ruins now but it’s still owned by the descendants of the same Baba, and there’s still a real temple running and honouring his remains . There are countless tombs and secret pathways. The place was also lined with endless red hallways, There are still some chandeliers hanging on the ceiling , one of them used to be covered with gold but then the British came took it down replaced all the gold with bronze and put it back on again as if no one would ever notice the difference.
So off we went for Jaipur. Here we spent 2 nights. The first night we went to a place called Choki Dani which is basically a restaurant that has all cultural features you can walk through while you wait to get really hungry for veggies. There are blacksmiths, magicians, gypsy dancers, puppeteers, and even a camel ride for the brave. When we got hungry we went inside a huge clay building that had pillows and low tables positioned in long rows. we sat on one corner, all the utensils were made of baked leaves. Rajasthani clad boys come with bronze and silver pots giving you unlimited helpings of all the veggie dish they have, it’s not as spicy as usual, or maybe I’m just getting too used to it, You have unlimited roti and another smaller roti. I first doubted I could get full with the food but soon enough I was already begging off the second helpings they offered me. Now I understand how people can actually live their whole life without eating meat. But I’m still a fan of the great Burger Mac.
Day 3
The next day we went to the Amber palace in the Amber City which was within old Jaipur which was also known as the pink city. Amber palace again is HUGE! Not to mention steep. It’s situated in the middle of a mountain range, and you can actually see something like the Great wall of China surrounding the fortress. You have a choice of whether walking up the hill to the fortress or riding these huge elephants for hire that walk up and down the hill effortlessly, it costs 500 rupees one way, we chose to walk, it saved us money for shopping but the big downside was that you’d have to walk amongst ten elephants at a time and if its not enough that you can be pounded to the ground easily by these giants you also have to avoid the big dump these big fellas leave on the road. After some time these elephants didn’t seem so cute to me anymore.
I kinda wondered whether its name, Amber, had something to do with it’s color which is yellowish and kinda reminds me of the stone with the same name. But turns out that it was named from a goddess that the ancient city dwellers worshipped, maybe the color just came in as an afterthought. The raja that made the palace within the fortress, again like any typical Indian king, was into frills. He had a summer room that had good ventilation to ward off the summer’s heat and another winter room that amazingly resembles the mirror room from the Agra fort. It had thousands of mirrors wall to wall, ceiling to ceiling. It looked wonderful at daylight. I can only imagine how it looks like at night. And the same king had twelve wives which he managed to make twelve apartments for in the palace cleverly designed so that he can visit any one of them without being detected by the others… the ultimate Manoy of those days. We finished the tour by going through a tunnel which was used for the prisoners back then. It was just recently discovered by archaeologists and the place being in a state of restoration at the moment I guess have much more secrets to be revealed. I imagine they can make a huge six star casino hotel out of the place, like the Atlantis in Nassau Bahamas, who knows maybe the Hiltons can strike a deal with the Indian government and totally pimp up the whole place… hehehe.
So we took some needed break in our hotel, which was basically an old guest house restored for bed and breakfast, when night came we went back to old Jaipur for some much awaited shopping. India is the motherland of haggling, these Indians are known worldwide as clever merchants, but the good thing about having an Indian boyfriend is that they know how to deal with Indian salesmen. I just basically tell him what I like he approaches the salesman as I sit back, relax and watch how the masters do it. Imagine I got three sandals, pretty ones with all the bling-bling sequined on it, for just Rs 125 a piece brought down from Rs200, which was already reasonable enough considering that they are of good quality and they can easily be sold in a Greenhills Tiangge for at least P500 a pair. We found bedsheets with beautiful Mogul and Hindi designs for just RS 150 for a double sized bed, hand sewn comforters for just RS 180. We found Shalvars and Kurtas, A set of Rajasthani puppets for just Rs50— that sucks because we’ve already bought a pair in Amber for freaking RS200 not knowing we were being ripped off big time! Anyway we had everything we needed and more I guess, we headed for some good old streetfood binge. Gopal found us a nice spot, he lives in Jaipur so he knows the place like the back of his hand. We first had Golgappa made out of puffs that have a little stuffing inside and is dipped into a light vinegar sauce and you eat it in one gulp, then we had some Phelpuri, a mix of blanched tomatoes rice puffs and all other undecipherable stuff served in a small paper plate. Then the main meal was a Dosal, it’s basically a variation of the roti more common in south India, this one is as big as a cauldron’s surface, it’s rolled up and has a sweet-spicy potato stuffing inside which you dip in either a curry sauce or a coconut yoghurt dip. We had our fill and went back to the hotel for a much needed rest.
Day 4
This day started off slowly, we got out of the hotel pretty late, around 10:30 AM. There was about a four hour drive to Mandawa that laid ahead of us. Just the usual trek I guess. Overcrowded three-wheeled autos, Over-speeding ten wheeler trucks overtaking slower cars, cows, camels, goats, donkeys, more cows… By now we can see the terrain change from green mountains to arid sand dunes as we slowly approach the Pakistan border… yes the Middle east. We were surprised, after about a couple of hours of hardly seeing anyone on the road , to see Mandawa which was a seemingly ancient village that had a sprawled out market with a lot of people, even tourists and nice big buildings. We were even more surprised to see the hotel we were staying on for the night. The Mandawa Heritage Hotel, it’s an actual haveli, an old Indian mansion, beautifully preserved and restored as a hotel, the walls inside and out were painted with nice Hindi murals that depict Krishna’s exploits and other Hindi scenes. I felt like we’ve actually struck gold, as if for this stop we actually get to stay inside an actual ancient Indian palace. And our room was nice too… HUGE! there wasn’t a TV set though but then again they feature nightly cultural shows on the atrium outside our room so that would cover for our entertainment. We took a walk outside to check out other not so well preserved havellis in the village, saw a huge antique collection from one of the owners, A Hindi temple along the village’s main road. Our guide which was also our hotel’s manager invited us for chai in front of the temple. we sat for a while … made tambay with the boys and watched donkeys walking up and down the road. After the walk we still can’t get over how beautiful the havelli is. We had a nice authentic Indian massage come nightfall and of course another full veggie meal from the hotel itself. By morning Varoon and I were discussing how much it would cost to buy a havelli around this place so we could restore it as a bed and breakfast, how much? well, too much!
Day 5
We got out of Mandawa a little earlier than our departure from Jaipur. Again the long road laid ahead of us. The terrain to Bikaner is mostly dry, more sand dunes, more bushes… yup, we are definitely in the desert now. The drive is about five hours, Varoon found a way of amusing himself by switching with Gopal and getting a taste of the countryside drive, I also asked if I can drive but of course he said no. See Indians are probably the worst and best drivers in the world. Their cars are so small that they find sport in weaving through traffic, but the roads are too narrow that it always seems a matter of life and death to get back on your lane, and on the open road like this they cannot stand waiting behind a slow truck so overtaking is the norm. I rarely would like to keep my eyes on the road since every now and then I see a huge truck coming straight at us and Gopal would swerve just in time to safety, and it’s so normal for both of my companions that i find it futile by now to complain or even gasp about it. So it was actually yesterday that I started on this long blog to kill time and keep me from gasping on the road.
Bikaner is a slow city, maybe the fact that we were there on a Sunday added to that effect. We had a wonderful lunch in the hotel, we haven’t eaten any meat for a couple of days by now, there wasn’t any served, I’ve already started to think ill of all the stray cows roaming around the road. Imagine these cows would probably feed half of the Indian hungry population if only they’d start seeing them as potential meat patties, but then culture and religion run thick in the veins of Indians especially people from the countryside that the whole cow population in the country can rest assured that they can walk around everywhere without being harmed. Varoon introduced me to a new dish called ‘navratan korma’ it had cashew, and raisins in creamy curry sauce, where you dip a butttered roti. It was so wonderful it sure stopped me from bad mouthing cows for some time.
They had a fort called Junagarh Fort, Another eccentric palace of yet another eccentric rajah, The descendants of this rajah are still very much alive and are enjoying a lavish lifestyle, they opened up the palace as a museum of their granddaddy’s exploits and opulence. There are rooms that still have thrones on it. A room that still have gold paint on the ceiling. A huge hall that could easily have been a ballroom in those times. We went back to the hotel trying not to sleep for too long … but we did so we ended the night watching a singing competition Dhoom Macha De on TV ’til we got back to sleeping again.